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Distributor Cap and Rotor

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  • Distributor Cap and Rotor

    What cap and rotors do u guys use? Bavarian sells them togeter for about 100 dollars, but on carparts.com you can get them for half the price, Depending on the manufacturer. Is the quality of different manufactures justified in the difference in price?

    Also how do i reset the inspection light?

    Thanks

  • #2
    Dont get the BERU ones....they suck...

    Get BOSCH...you can save money by getting volvo bosch ones...you just have to change the plug wire order...

    Dont skimp on these parts...its not worth it...

    And you just have to connect to of the pins together with a paperclip...i believe 9 and 27....dont quote me on that though....or you can stop by my house and I'll reset it with my inspection reset tool.

    ADA///M

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    • #3
      >>>And you just have to connect to of the pins together with a paperclip...i believe 9 and 27....dont quote me on that though....or you can stop by my house and I'll reset it with my inspection reset tool.<<<

      According to the 1988 ETM it's pin 7 that is used to reset the service indicator. This pin needs to be grounded. You can use pin 19 for grounding, or any other convenient ground.

      You ground 7 with the key off. Turn the key to the on position (don't start the car), and when all the leds come on you turn the key off after about one second - then change oil lights are turned off. If you keep the key on for 6-7 seconds all the service and oil related lights go off and everything is reset. I always reset everything and have never tried the one second thing. It's a good idea to use a fused wire to do this reset but I have also used a paper clip without issue.

      Stan

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      • #4
        Dammit...i knew there was a 7 and a 9 in there in some order...

        Oh well...it gots teh tool...

        ADA///M

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        • #5
          Originally posted by ADA///M
          Dont get the BERU ones....they suck...

          Get BOSCH...you can save money by getting volvo bosch ones...you just have to change the plug wire order...

          Dont skimp on these parts...its not worth it...

          And you just have to connect to of the pins together with a paperclip...i believe 9 and 27....dont quote me on that though....or you can stop by my house and I'll reset it with my inspection reset tool.

          ADA///M
          What's wrong with the Beru or Bremi parts? They are OE suppliers as well. Just wondering if there's proof that they are inferior to the Bosch.

          88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/M TECH
          89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/SCHWARZ
          85 323I S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZ
          91 M TECHNIC TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH


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          • #6
            As for the Volvo part numbers, if you were interested- on the box there are two numbers. Most often Bosch 03215, and
            then also 1 235 522 382, but I think the first number is the one to
            request. I got the part from Eurasian Auto 800 824 8814. I spoke with Dave when I ordered mine back in the fall.

            Hope that's useful to someone

            Beau

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Reelizmpro
              What's wrong with the Beru or Bremi parts? They are OE suppliers as well. Just wondering if there's proof that they are inferior to the Bosch.
              From a lot of stories i've heard on the SIG...

              Id rather have bosch...no ones ever complained about bosch

              ADA///M

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              • #8
                I wouldn't blindly get Bosch all the time. There are lots of parts they make which don't work any better than equivalents. And some are worse.

                Having said that, here is an ignition rotor from my collection of autopsy parts. I dunno if it's Bosch or what but it failed. The part has a roughly 1000 ohm resistance molded in place between the center and perimeter metal bits of the rotor. This one failed such that the resistance from center to perimeter tip was about 1.5 MILLION OHMS! The car ran okay but was rough at start up and was down on power a bit. The spark must have been jumping from the hole in the resistor to the nearest back edge of the metal tip in order to operate. At least in my case the rotors always die before the caps.

                There are two cap types, one with a metal tip and one with a spring loaded carbon tip. I have only used the latter. I never use the PITA water cover, just a vented cap with the plug and coil wires engaged. I drill holes near the metal electrodes in the cap to vent ozone and make the cap act like it was larger in diameter. I have played around with nonresistance ignition rotors made by soldering in a wire between the two metal bits, bypassing the resistor.



                Stan
                Last edited by Stan; 04-07-2003, 11:15 AM.

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