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Replacing my brake rotors and pads.

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  • Replacing my brake rotors and pads.

    I am replacing my rotors with OEM rotors with about 50k miles on them and Hawk HPS's. Should I also change the fluid? How do I brake in the pads? Should I get my wheels aligned after or is it ok to align them before I replace the rotors?

  • #2
    Also, what kind of fluid and brake lines do you guys suggest?

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    • #3
      It never hurts to flush the fluid, i recently switched to ATE super blue. The pads will come with instructions for break in, some require you to do no hard stops for 300-500 miles or so.. others require several hard stops from 60mph - 5mph to bed them in...also remember to get 2 wear sensors (1 front, 1 rear) you can reuse your old ones if they aren't worndown to the point of triggering the light.

      Changing rotors will not effect your alignment.
      Chris
      90 Corrado/91 M3/01 M5

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      • #4
        Alignment can take place before or after the brake system work.

        I like to break-in pads by doing a series of snubs after some initial light driving. A snub is when you break from one speed down to another but do not stop.

        After a few miles of regular driving with new brakes and moderate braking you are ready for snubs.

        Try something like 40 MPH to 25 MPH a few times moderately, accelerating back to speed right afterwards. Then 4-5 more at harder pedal pressures. Drive a fw minutes to cool things off then do some higher speed snubs say from 70-40 or 30 MPH, maybe 8-10. You may feel some pad fade - the braking action may decrease. Don't park the car afterwards, drive it above about 30-40 MPH for about 5 minutes and then you can park, using the brakes lightly cuz you want them to cool off. If you have to stop at a light during cool down don't sit there with the brakes applied!! (try to avoid stopping) Do this: Use the hot brakes lightly to stop and then leave space to the line or next car so you can creep up 3 feet at a time once or twice...this gets the 180 degree opposite part of the disc under the pads. After everything is cooled off you are set.

        Racers may break-in new pads on used rotors and do higher speed snubs. Sometimes they scotchbrite excessive pad pickup off of the disc surface. Some pads don't need much break-in but they all need time to fit the rotor such that all of the pad touches the swept area of the disc. Pads that have special break-in needs usually come with specific directions. Follow them!

        Stan

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        • #5
          How many liters of brake fluid do I need?

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          • #6
            >>>How many liters of brake fluid do I need?<<<

            Some say two some say one liter. One thing that helps when you flush is to suck out the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir and add THEN add the new stuff. I use a turkey baster thing or my suction oil change gizmo. It's easy to tell when you're done if you use the ATE blue and gold stuff. You alternate colors so when you see the other color, that line is done.

            Stan

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            • #7
              Cool, thanks for the help.

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