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  • Oil Pump

    Yes...i searched and did not find the answers im really looking for...at least not a definitive one.

    OK...im replacing the upper pan gasket.

    So im going to do teh pump as well.

    Im assuming I should do the sprocket and chain also correct? Or is this not needed?

    They are cheap parts....so why not?

    Onto what oil pump to get.

    VAC has a stock pump and a High Performance Pump....anyone have any suggestions on this?

    Anything else?

    Thanks,
    Adam

  • #2
    keep in mind that there are TWO sprockets and a chain to replace. I don't know how easy the crank sprocket is to remove while the engine is in.
    What is the difference between the two pumps mentioned?
    Why don't you get a EVO3 pump?


    Goodbye M3, you served me well.

    Comment


    • #3
      i dont know...thats why im asking you :p

      Yeah...i guess from teh bottom all I can replace is the oil pump sprocket.

      Is the e3 pump better? worth the money?

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Oil Pump

        Originally posted by ADA///M
        Yes...i searched and did not find the answers im really looking for...at least not a definitive one.

        OK...im replacing the upper pan gasket.

        So im going to do teh pump as well.

        Im assuming I should do the sprocket and chain also correct? Or is this not needed?

        They are cheap parts....so why not?

        Onto what oil pump to get.

        VAC has a stock pump and a High Performance Pump....anyone have any suggestions on this?

        Anything else?

        Thanks,
        Adam
        well, unless you get the master link chain, you'll have to take off your front timing cover and at least one cam gear, too, in order to change the oil pump gear. you might as well replace your timing chain and guides/rails if you're gonna do that :-). never a bad idea to replace the gear, though. they're cheap.

        you can make a stock pump a high performance pump with a little time and a couple of washers. check the SIG archives for more info -- i'm guessing the same info is on here somewhere, too. basically, all you do is shim the over-pressure relief valve....
        Jefrem Iwaniw

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        • #5
          I have shimmed my EVO3 pump because of the non-valved oil squirters I use instead the mega expensive EVO3 squirters.





          Goodbye M3, you served me well.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks Uwe.

            Is there a more detailed write up on this somewhere or on here in another thread I missed....if you have anymore info that would be great.

            Did you just buy that shim? or make it?

            Comment


            • #7
              I would also double check the torque on the (7?) bolts that hold the two oil pump castings together. After rebuilding an engine this past spring, we had the bolts come loose at Barber ending up with no oil pressure. This was on a brand new factory assembled pump.

              The replacement pump to that pump also had the same issue. There was also no evidence of loctite on any of the bolt threads. Another DFW M3 guy checked his after our problems and he also had a similar issue with a pump purchased only a year earlier. Others did not, but it's not a good feeling when you see the glowing red aftermarket pressure light on at the track!


              Nick

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              • #8
                I made it. I have no more information than this.

                I know of someone who puts just a washer where I have painted the red arrow. But I didn't fancy this solution. Just doesn't seem save to me because the rod can be moved up and down and I don't want the washer to jam the rod solid. If you play around with the pump you know what I mean. The green arrow shows the spacer I made but upside down.



                Goodbye M3, you served me well.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for teh ifno guys....

                  Uwe...this spacer just gives a higher pressure overall?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    As far as I know only idle is raised. I didn't shim the other valve as the EVO3 pump has got a double spring set up here already. I haven't got round to install my oil pressure gauge yet but my oil light goes off imediately at start up. I was a bit concerned bcause of the oilsquirters but things are fine so far.


                    Goodbye M3, you served me well.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Look throught the SIG archives for a more detailed explanation, but in a nutshell:

                      Shimming this spring raises the pressure required to open the relief valve. This valve is fed from the front of the main galley (that's the tube that's on the front of the engine coming down into your oil pump). Stock pumps are set to relieve pressure between 57-85 psi. Most seem to be around 60-70. By shimming the spring, your max oil PSI should be raised.

                      It should have no effect on your idle oil pressure (unless its over the previous relief value).
                      Jefrem Iwaniw

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                      • #12
                        As soon I have my gauge fitted I will post the readings. I was under the impression that this valve is meant to build up a min pressure and the holizontal valve is holding the main pressure.
                        I am happy if someone can clarify this. I have spoken to another chap with both valves shimmed and his pressure readings where quite scary, so I decided not to shim the horizontal valve. Hopefully I have made the right decision.


                        Goodbye M3, you served me well.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by UweM3
                          As soon I have my gauge fitted I will post the readings. I was under the impression that this valve is meant to build up a min pressure and the holizontal valve is holding the main pressure.
                          I am happy if someone can clarify this. I have spoken to another chap with both valves shimmed and his pressure readings where quite scary, so I decided not to shim the horizontal valve. Hopefully I have made the right decision.
                          I thought I did just clarify this :-). The other, horizontal relief is set for around 115 psi and its for preventing oil filter blowout. No real need to shim that one -- it will have no effect on the pressure within the engine (just affects the pressure between the pump and the oil filter housing). Of course, if you crazy shim the vertical one to be above 115 psi, then this one might come into play....
                          Jefrem Iwaniw

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                          • #14
                            Does anyone know the resulting oil pressure with this Oil pump
                            mod. (3mm shim on the vertical relief valve)?
                            sigpic

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                            • #15
                              I'm going to guesstimate that with just 3mm you will only get a small increase in peak pressure (<10psi). But you can shim this spring up to 9-10mm if you want more than that. I have seen a little over 100psi cold and around 90 psi hot with a 3/16" shim (4.75mm). The shim doesn't have to be very elaborate either; you can just cut off a section of the non-threaded part of a 3/8" bolt. Fits like a glove inside the piston (put it in before the spring).

                              HTH

                              -Luis

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