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Clutch sugestions for turbo s14

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  • Clutch sugestions for turbo s14

    I've started off with a VAC hd clutch kit that I had with the NA M3, lasted during a dyno session, then the slipping began.
    Afterwards I had a carbon kevlar sprung hub clutch kit made down here is Aus, that has terrible harmonic vibration @ 3 to 2k rmp's during deceleration and very harsh engagement.

    I'm looking for a more steetable solution.

    Car is making 305whp


  • #2
    Sachs HD 618 pressure plate and stock organic sprung hub disk. This combo will hold 400, easy.

    "Objects in mirror are losing..."


    • #3
      Anders do you have the full part number?


      • #4
        Art.No.:883082 999618
        Last edited by wapuk; 08-09-2011, 11:46 AM.


        • #5
          I've found that proper break-in of a clutch is a necessity when you're dealing with a high torque car. For the turbo cars I deal with (most have 420-550 wheel hp, 400-650 ft lbs of torque), we usually use a kevlar clutch disk (or disks), and put on a minimum of a hundred miles of easy, normal stop-and-go street driving before we start doing full power wot runs on the dyno or at the track. Don't try to slip the clutch to generate heat or anything like that, and stay off the boost - just lots of city-type stop and go, letting things cool down periodically. Each time you use the clutch helps mate the friction surfaces to the pressure plate and flywheel. For our track-only race cars, we've gone to private parking lots, and gone up and down the aisles, parking in each space in the lot. Pretty boring...

          It's funny - one of our suppliers recommended slipping his clutch to break it in. We tried his way, and all it did was glaze the friction media and make hot spots on the flywheel and pressure plate. It slipped instantly the moment we got on the dyno, and never was able to hold the torque we were making. Swapped it out for a new clutch (same manufacturer, same friction material, same specs), broke it in our way, and it worked perfectly...