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#3, don't forget the alternator to where the dipstick tube meets.
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Mark Williams
Dallas, TX
Nothing says "welcome to the neighborhood" like a search... oh wait... looks like they are all gone! :rastajake:
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Thanks chaps.
Uwe,
I know what you mean. But, I say fuck it! It's only a car!
SteveComment
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Really nice work you're doing there Steve.
Atb JaseComment
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I'll take that compliment coming from you. Your's aint to shabby either.
SteveComment
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re stone chips: you should be able to avoid those with clear film covering the respective parts, shouldnt you?
Did you use thread sealant on the flywheel bolts? Sorry I am a bit late with that question/remark but if you didnt at least you have a chance to correct it before you ruin the friction plate...
and....
looking great!
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Thread sealant errr, no. Threadlock, Yes. Should be OK?
SteveComment
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Been busy sorting the trigger wheel.
I decided on a 12 tooth wheel mounted on the rear of the crank damper.
The trigger wheel came from http://trigger-wheels.com/store/index1.html and is designed for a Ford CV joint for use in traction control.
It was convenient that the inside diameter was larger than the rear of the crank pulley, so a hub could be made up to centralise the trigger wheel on the pulley.
Ready for paint
I had a hub machined up for interference fit, the hub was heated to 150degC and the pulley was dipped in liquid nitrogen for 2 mins. It still required pressing on with a little force, so I doubt it will shift! I just hop it is in the right place!!
Fitted
I left a 1.5mm gap to allow the outer section of the damper to move without risk of interference from the trigger.
Had a few other parts painted too.
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Should be ok. It’s been fine on mine using threadlocker on my ‘DD’ for 13’kms nowOriginally posted by stevesingo View Post
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if you use new bolts they come coated with the threadlock compoundOriginally posted by stevesingo View Post
Goodbye M3, you served me well.Comment
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They were new bolts and I added a drop of Loctite 243.
SteveComment
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as i saw the first pics i said FUCK..I wont be satisfied with my cars ever unless i follow your steps .amazing, I love seeing this. we restore american muscle cars and ive never tackled a full rot resto on any M. You inspire me and my wife, daughter, and wallet wont like that..cheers mate.Comment
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flawless resto Steve.....amazing work.
where abouts are you in the UK?JAMES
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A long way from Cambridgeshire! In fact, a long way from everywhere. I'm in Cumbria, just south of the Lake District, not too far from where the taki driver went nuts on Wednesday and shot 12 people.
If your bored, I could find you something to do!
What you doing in the UK?
SteveComment
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By way of an update.
When you work for one of the largest engineering companies in the county, it would be criminal not take advantage:p
Might be able to get it welded up and welded to the flange tomorrow.
I have been beavering away on the wiring loom. It is all spliced where I need it and cut to length. I did have to add some extra wires in to the Motec supplied Cut To Fit loom, which only provides the basics.
These included wires for 2 lambda sensors, and extra outputs for purge valve, oil temp sensor inputs and gauge outputs.
I will be consolidating some of sensors by using the ECU engine and oil temp sensors for both the ECU and the instruments by using an output from the ECU to ground the Temp gauges. Likewise with the oil pressure, where a sensor will feed the ECU oil pressure for logging purposes and the oil light will be grounded at what ever pressure I decide.
I will also try to output fuel used from the ECU for the OBC so I can get an accurate MPG.
As stated above, I will have the use of two lambda sensors. The future intentions are to try logging individual cylinders AFR in comparison to the "global" lambda. We will see about that one.
Anyway, up to now I have the coils wired in and sparking as they should.
And the Lambda 2 working and calibrated.
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