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Help: Front driver tire getting sliced by fender

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  • Help: Front driver tire getting sliced by fender

    I have an issue with my front driver tire getting cut up at just above 3 o'clock on the fender's edge when weight is transferred to the driver side like when backing into my driveway off a incline road. When this happens, I can only turn my 225/45/16 tires to the left about 40 degrees before the lip cuts into the contact patch (not sidewall), maybe 3mm deep at the most. Again, this is my right only, left tire never rubs. I had an alignment 20 miles ago immediately after they put the new tires, rims, and VAC 19mm RCS on.

    Anyone know what I can do other than go with skinnier tires or change wheels to have a higher offset? Would camber plates be helpful to shift the front wheels forward, which would center them in the wheel wells more? Do I need coilovers to have camber plates though? Sorry, I am not well versed in suspension geometry. I suppose I could also put taller or stiffer springs up front as well, any recommendations? I'd rather not roll the fender, and think it would still rub if I did, just not cut.

    I have stock shocks with Eibach lowering springs, rate unknown as installed by the previous owner. I also have tree house cabs and the tires are toyo R1Rs on BBS RG 005 ET 18.







  • #2
    I just saw this in the other similar thread: Cage_design_fr_50.JPG

    Could it be that the offending edge is that piece with the red line and not the fender itself? This seems to make more sense because the cuts are at least 1" inside the contact patch.
    Last edited by fronton; 05-16-2012, 12:53 AM.

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    • #3
      From your pics it looks like you can be best served by installing the offset control arm bushings......this will add caster and move the wheels more forward in the wheelwell.
      That would be the easiest and most inexpensive route.

      E30 M3 / E30 325is / E30 325is / E30 318i / E36 ti / Alfa Romeo

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      • #4
        I need to keep THR cabs for exhaust clearance on the passenger side. If I did driver side offset only it would foul up the symmetry and handling I assume, probably pulling slightly right all the time? Could I add a couple washers behind the THR cabs? I think that might actually pull the wheel even more off center of the well though

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        • #5
          Originally posted by fronton View Post
          I need to keep THR cabs for exhaust clearance on the passenger side. If I did driver side offset only it would foul up the symmetry and handling I assume, probably pulling slightly right all the time? Could I add a couple washers behind the THR cabs? I think that might actually pull the wheel even more off center of the well though

          If you are running the THR CABs then you already have the offset specs.
          Some have drilled/slotted the mounting bolt areas and pushed the THR CABs outside a few mm's to help with camber issues when running E36 suspension.
          This should be not really be necessary in your case though.

          Maybe looking in to a nice set of camber/caster adjustable camber plates will be the easiest route at this point.

          E30 M3 / E30 325is / E30 325is / E30 318i / E36 ti / Alfa Romeo

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          • #6
            Sorry like to give my input since I ran 225 /45/16 up front before but I'm not qualified to give advice on this site.
            I have dyslexia so most the time my writing and spelling looks okay to me



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            • #7
              thanks, I'll look into a set of camber/castor plates. If I add more castor though to center the wheels in the wells better, won't that effectually lower the front end more as well? Perhaps I could add slight negative camber as well which the rear wheels seem to have a bit of.

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              • #8
                Pm'd you my advice
                I have dyslexia so most the time my writing and spelling looks okay to me



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                • #9
                  For the same money as castor plates I can buy a pair of 205/50/16 R1Rs and save the current pair for the rears when I wear them out. I think that is my best bang for my buck given the side walls are the same dimension and would not be noticeable aesthetically other than less square edges. When I look at camber/castor plates, they only let me adjust the castor less than 1% which I can't imagine being a real help, like these: http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/share...t=products.asp

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                  • #10
                    your welcome another pm sent on my thought of the 50
                    I have dyslexia so most the time my writing and spelling looks okay to me



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                    • #11
                      here is my old set up 225/45/16 square no rubbing perfect fit Hr sport springs.16 x 7.5" et 20, 16 x 8.5" et 24
                      I have dyslexia so most the time my writing and spelling looks okay to me



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                      • #12
                        It'd be cool if I could see the front wheel. Since my offset is only 2mm lower than yours, I think the difference is the enormous contact patch of my R1Rs. They are very square and wider than the 7.5" rim. According to the spec sheet, the overall width is 9.0" and contact patch is 8.3". Compared to stock 205/55/15 Yoko S drives, that is a full 1" wider contact patch. Combine that with an inch less offset and slice!

                        I still don't know if castor plates or more tapered front tires are the better solution, or why my passenger tire never rubs.

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                        • #13
                          Here better shot the front for you.Bet this would solve your problem http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse....02106&pID=4989
                          I have dyslexia so most the time my writing and spelling looks okay to me



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                          • #14
                            I don't need to see the front of the car, just the front tire's relation to the fender, which I still can't see. I think 215/40/16 is too extreme and would lower the oil pan so much that I'd soon have a bigger problem than I do now. 215/45/16 might be the ticket though slimming my sidewall down 1cm as well as tapering in better.

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                            • #15
                              By your description sounds like you have the same issue as my car. This is what is happening to you?

                              Check my thread, it's like 3 lower thread than this one, tittled as BBS CH 17x8.5 etc etc... I got a solution for my case already.


                              Euro M3'87 NogaroSilver / Euro E34 M5 '93 / Porsche 993 TT 97' Euro / Porsche 993 Carrera 95' Euro / Skyline R33 GT-R

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